Kalymnos,
the sponge diver's island, offers fantastic sport climbing in a
cool and peacefull setting. The rock is of excellent quality and
the 302 single - pitch sport routes existing, leave many cliffs
of 10 to 200 meters offering numerous possibilities for new routes.
The rock climbing is never monotonous, as there are routes on slabs
and walls with delicate moves, or routes on overhangs and roofs
with holes and stalagmites. There are at the moment, 41 equipped
crags with 302 pitches, from F4a to F9a+ (all bolt protected sport
climbing), mostly west facing, but a few south facing.
The rock is excellent quality limestone, sharp at only a few points,
without vegetation, and the pitches are equipped with rustproof
bolts. At the moment all the routes are one pitch, but there are
many possibilities for amazing two to five pitch routes. Indeed,
apart from the quality, there is also the vast amount of rock available
The open routes do not represent more than 10% of their possibilities,
while there are several equally good cliffs completely untouched
that are awaiting their first route. The
first routes on the island were first put up by the famous italian
rock climbers Andrea Di Bari and Andrea Gallo. Andrea Di Bari discovered
the rock climbing interest of the island in 1996 while on honeymoon
with his wife, also a rock climber; however they had no equipment
with them. He came back in the autumn with an intermediate school
with the purpose of opening routes. Fidteen were then opened on
Archi and Odyssey by the students. In the meantime, almost all the
pitches have been equipped by Italian and German climbers, the later
more recently active, while practically every month new pitches
are equipped. Up to 1999, the equipped pitches were easier sport
standard on grey slabs (from F5b to F6c), but now the yellow / red
overhanging sections are also being taken into consideration, and
the island is really full of superb caves with icredible holes,
stalactites and rifles.
The potential for new roures is huge and many crags are waiting
their first route. New multi-pitch routes are also possible. At
easter 2000 there was a rock climbing course for ten locals, organised
by the Municipality of Kalymnos, aiming to form a group of local
climbers. The instructors was Aris Theodoropoulos and Thomas Mihailidis.
The instructors also undertook in the summer of 2000 a program,
in colaboration with the local council, to open new routes and to
check the protections of existing. Kalymnos is one of the few rock
climbing areas in the world whose protection is certified by professional
mountain guides working to strict specifications.